Thursday, July 16, 2009

Surf Trip


Playa Makaja (near side) & Redondo (far side) seperated by the pier.


Playa Pampilla breaks right.

It was Monday, July 6th when I reluctantly left the home base of Pisco in search of waves. Sad to be away from the great volunteers there, but good news is that I found some great waves. Apparently the last weekend I spent in Pisco, a huge swell arrived to the coast of mid-southern Peru but I didn´t manage to get out for a paddle. However, since I arrived in Lima on Monday afternoon, I have managed to surf everyday apart from one when I had some stomach issues.
Lima has several beaches for surfing depending on swell conditions and direction. I didn´t venture out of Miraflores and surfed Makaja and Redondo this time. Last time I was in Lima I also tried the rights at Pampilla. Apart from the cost of staying and eating in Miraflores, there are always some waves.


Central Lima - Plaza de Armas

The day that I had a rotten gut, I tagged along with Riz (England), Clay (Wisconsin), and Sally and Leandra (Pennsylvania) to central Lima for some sight seeing. We went to China town for some grub, San Francisco Church to check out the extensive catacombs and some classic architecture.
On the night of Friday the 10th, I hopped on an overnight bus to Trujillo, where I then took a taxi to the nearby fishing village of Huanchaco. Like Lima, there are always some waves here, however I prefer it here for a few reasons. First of all, it is much cheaper; I pay 15 soles per night for a private room with hot water in my private bathroom, where I was paying 30 soles per night for a dorm room in Lima. Secondly, the shape of the beach favours left breaks and me being a goofy rider prefer riding with my frontside to the wave face.


Our guide playing the flute in the main Plaza of Chan Chan


Looking over traditional Huanchaco.

My life this past week and some has been very relaxing, consisting of surfing, reading, sleeping and of course plenty of eating. Here in Huanchacho, the hotel that I am staying at is only 2 blocks from the break so I usually go out twice a day. Between sessions, if I am not eating, sleeping or reading, I may be walking around checking out sites and such. On Tuesday, I checked out the nearby ruins of Chan Chan, the worlds largest adobe city. Most of the mud walls are eroding but restoration is ongoing and some of the main areas have been beautifully restored.
I am not sure when I shall return to Pisco. Originally it was meant to be this coming weekend, but the waves are so much fun that I want to get as much surf time in as possible before making my way to Brazil via Bolivia. So, I shall remain somewhere on the coast of Peru until I feel I have had my fix and find someone to adopt my surf equipment.

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